Friday morning in anticipation of her arrival Chepe and I set out to do some errands. Right before we left the house we took the family´s bulldog, Matteo, out of the flat to go to the bathroom. Walking back into the building I was texting Julia when out of no where Matteo PLOWED into my right ankle and snap, I rolled it big time. I started crying because it hurt so bad and thought immediately there was no way I could walk on it. Chepe insisted I try walking on it but it hurt so bad and I was frustrated because I felt like he didn´t realize what had just happened. I eventually limped into the building and took the elevator upstairs. He brought me ice and we took off my boot. Sure enough my ankle was already tripled in size and it hurt, bad :( Chepe said I was being a baby. Maybe I was, but it f*ing hurt and all I could think about was how the hell am I going to get around the rest of my trip with a sprained ankle!!!!! And really, did a bulldog just sprain my ankle?! That beast of a dog! He`s enormous.
After some ice and elevation and more tears we headed out to the red cross because I still had to get my yellow fever vaccination for Tayrona National Park. Next stop was the airport. Finally Julia was here! Don´t get me wrong I was having a fabulous time with Chepe and his family but.....it would be nice to have an accomplice for the next part of my trip.
First let me tell you how proud I was of Julia for traveling all the way here via Panama City by herself. This was her first time out of the country as a solo traveler and she arrived in good spirits and with an open mind! We headed to the Zona T, an area know for its restaurants, cafes, discotecas and bars. We settled on Colombian food as a first meal for her. Julia came to understand in no time the aftermath of the meat and potatoes diet here.
Come dinner time she was just as eager as me for some vegetables or a salad, anything green really! Chepe and his girlfriend took us to a part of Bogota called Usaquen known for a few convents and it´s more traditional feel. Kind of like the Candelara but with mostly white colonial buildings. Actually it sort of reminds me of a downtown Sonoma in a way- felt a little like home. Julia agreed. We ate a late dinner at Cafe Amarti a quaint, rustic Italian restaurant. We got our salad and some wine and we were oh-so-happy. Later we moved on to a bar with live music and we forced Julia to take her first shot of Aguardiente. She was a pretty good sport but I´m certain she won´t be drinking anymore of the Colombian firewater.
Saturday morning we sat down to a traditonal breakfast with the entire family (they all live together) and the grandmother who was visiting. We had the Colombian version of the tamale which is similar to a Mexican tamale but wrapped instead in a plantain leaf rather than a corn husk.
Our destination for the day was Zipaquira a town about 40 minutes outside of Bogota know for a Cathedral carved into a salt mine. We descended about 600ft into an enormous salt cave which featured a progression of the stations of the cross. Each with a cross carved entirely out of salt and illuminated with lights.
After descending further into the cave we reached the main part of the cathedral where masses and concerts are held. With all the colorful lights and acoustics we all thought it would make an excellent discoteca.
On our way out of the town we drove through the characteristically traditonal white town.
Heading back to Bogota Sebastion took an alternative route home through a part of Bogota called La Calera, an area that serves as a seconde countryside residence for Bogota´s most affluent. Another prominent feature of the countryside is the myriad flower farms scattered all over. The massive transparent tents house mostly roses. At one point we we turned down a quiet road where Chepe pointed out a formidable white fortress. This hacienda was President Uribe´s private finca (farm). We stopped briefly by the Alpina factory to get some dessert. Chepe´s brother Sebastion, an architect, helped to design this modern looking dairy factory. There we enjoyed fresh strawberries with cream and a Colombianized version of cannoli w/ arequipe (a carmel like filling) instead of cream. As we approached Bogota we passed through several luxurious housing settlements (mostly second homes) and country clubs contrasted by some smaller more modest villages.
That afternoon back at the flat Chepe insisted we must try some junk food. Great.....So he ordered some hot dogs to be delivered. One really nice thing about Colombia is that you can have ANYTHING delivered. If you are out of milk or eggs or want a liter of Coke all you need to do is pick up the phone and call the store and they promptly deliver anything you want, at no charge! What´s more is that you can have almost any restaurant deliver meals to you. So today we have hot dogs Colombian style which meant with crushed potatoes chips, pineapple, bacon, and cheese. Needless to say we had stomach aches after.
Our last night we decided to take Julia to Andres Carne de Res, an essential Bogota experience. Before we went out, however, we met up with my friend Victoria´s (friend from Milwaukee I met in Germany) uncle. Victoria´s aunt marriend a Colombian man. So Alberto came up to the flat for a short visit. He was super friendly and might I add extremely handsome :) He offered to set us up with a friend in Cartagena to see a polo match.
At about seven we hopped into the car with Sebastion and two of his friends and set out to the town of Chia, home to the Andres Carne de Res. Julia´s Colombian classmate in LA raved about Andres so she had been anticipating this night for a while. First things first we ordered some yummy fruit cocktails and food from the grill. Eventually we headed into the main room which is home to the dance floor. We danced a few songs with Sebastion and his friends, attempting to master salsa and meringue. Let me point out some observations about the nightlife in Colombia. On significant contrast to nightlife in the US is that Colombian nightlife is centered around couples. Chepe confirmed this observation telling me that most often Colombians go out as couple in a group rather than go out in groups of singles girls or guys. This is also noticeable on the dance floors as everyone is paired up. What´s nice about this is that no guys are creeping up on you on the dance floor. On the other hand, if you don´t have a date you miss out on dancing! Unless some Colombian girls is willing to share her man with you.....which she most certainly isn´t. Let me tell you how possessive the Colombian women are about there men. Chepe´s girlfriend was outwardly nice to Julia and myself but really she showed zero interest in befriending us. She was cordial, greeting us with the customary kiss on the cheek but then completely ignoring us the rest of the time. What happened to the universal girl code that we are all on the same team?? Even more, when she was around she completely monopolized Chepe´s attention. I mean she wouldn´t even make eye contact with Julia and I. Sure, it´s only human to be a little jealous or perhaps protective of your guy around other girls but her indifference was plain RUDE. In attempts to prevent a dynamic of this very sort I exhausted myself being friendly, engaging her in conversation, and giving her complements. My efforts were fruitless. It took Julia no more than a few hours in her company to realize this Colombian chica was not our friend.
So there we were observing the dance floor and trying not to notice the obscene PDA going on across the table between Chepe and his girlfriend. I mean Colombian displays of affection between couples takes it to a level I have never seen before. It´s plain uncomfortable. Get a room, seriously! At some point Julia and I huddled and decided to get the away from this table where we were subject to gross displays of affection. Determined to make this a successful night we left to wander around the entire restaurant. We settled at an empty table far away from the amorous couple. Within minutes we were approached by a nice good-looking group of Colombian and Mexican men. They bought us drinks and within minutes we forgot about the uncomfortable first part of the night. We even took to our own dance floor with them dancing to salsa and meringue. At the end of the night we were having fun and I was proud of us for turning the night around.
By Sunday were very much anticipating Angelica´s arrival and the next part of our journey, Cartagena.....
That afternoon back at the flat Chepe insisted we must try some junk food. Great.....So he ordered some hot dogs to be delivered. One really nice thing about Colombia is that you can have ANYTHING delivered. If you are out of milk or eggs or want a liter of Coke all you need to do is pick up the phone and call the store and they promptly deliver anything you want, at no charge! What´s more is that you can have almost any restaurant deliver meals to you. So today we have hot dogs Colombian style which meant with crushed potatoes chips, pineapple, bacon, and cheese. Needless to say we had stomach aches after.
Our last night we decided to take Julia to Andres Carne de Res, an essential Bogota experience. Before we went out, however, we met up with my friend Victoria´s (friend from Milwaukee I met in Germany) uncle. Victoria´s aunt marriend a Colombian man. So Alberto came up to the flat for a short visit. He was super friendly and might I add extremely handsome :) He offered to set us up with a friend in Cartagena to see a polo match.
At about seven we hopped into the car with Sebastion and two of his friends and set out to the town of Chia, home to the Andres Carne de Res. Julia´s Colombian classmate in LA raved about Andres so she had been anticipating this night for a while. First things first we ordered some yummy fruit cocktails and food from the grill. Eventually we headed into the main room which is home to the dance floor. We danced a few songs with Sebastion and his friends, attempting to master salsa and meringue. Let me point out some observations about the nightlife in Colombia. On significant contrast to nightlife in the US is that Colombian nightlife is centered around couples. Chepe confirmed this observation telling me that most often Colombians go out as couple in a group rather than go out in groups of singles girls or guys. This is also noticeable on the dance floors as everyone is paired up. What´s nice about this is that no guys are creeping up on you on the dance floor. On the other hand, if you don´t have a date you miss out on dancing! Unless some Colombian girls is willing to share her man with you.....which she most certainly isn´t. Let me tell you how possessive the Colombian women are about there men. Chepe´s girlfriend was outwardly nice to Julia and myself but really she showed zero interest in befriending us. She was cordial, greeting us with the customary kiss on the cheek but then completely ignoring us the rest of the time. What happened to the universal girl code that we are all on the same team?? Even more, when she was around she completely monopolized Chepe´s attention. I mean she wouldn´t even make eye contact with Julia and I. Sure, it´s only human to be a little jealous or perhaps protective of your guy around other girls but her indifference was plain RUDE. In attempts to prevent a dynamic of this very sort I exhausted myself being friendly, engaging her in conversation, and giving her complements. My efforts were fruitless. It took Julia no more than a few hours in her company to realize this Colombian chica was not our friend.
So there we were observing the dance floor and trying not to notice the obscene PDA going on across the table between Chepe and his girlfriend. I mean Colombian displays of affection between couples takes it to a level I have never seen before. It´s plain uncomfortable. Get a room, seriously! At some point Julia and I huddled and decided to get the away from this table where we were subject to gross displays of affection. Determined to make this a successful night we left to wander around the entire restaurant. We settled at an empty table far away from the amorous couple. Within minutes we were approached by a nice good-looking group of Colombian and Mexican men. They bought us drinks and within minutes we forgot about the uncomfortable first part of the night. We even took to our own dance floor with them dancing to salsa and meringue. At the end of the night we were having fun and I was proud of us for turning the night around.
By Sunday were very much anticipating Angelica´s arrival and the next part of our journey, Cartagena.....
I am guessing Chepe is NOT reading this blog? Sounds like you are having so much fun...I don't know how the Colombian people aren't ginormous from the sound of their food. Although it does sound delicious. Looking forward to the next installment!!
ReplyDeletexx jessie